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By following the sequence below, you’ll prepare cabinets for painting the right way, avoid common pitfalls, and create the ideal surface for durable, beautiful results.
Set aside at least two to three days for thorough prep on an average kitchen (more if you’re filling grain on oak or doing extensive repairs). Day 1 is typically teardown, labeling, and deep cleaning. Day 2 is sanding, repairs, masking, and priming. Day 3 handles final sanding, dust control, and a tack wipe so you’re ready to paint. Careful planning keeps momentum high and mistakes low.
Optional Upgrades: liquid deglosser, shellac-based spot primer for knot bleed, turntable lazy-susans for door edges, racking or risers to elevate doors during drying
Before the first screw comes out, take wide and close-up photos of your doors, drawers, and hinge placements. Number every door and drawer front with painter’s tape on the hinge edge, and match that number to a cabinet box location. Drop all hardware for each opening into a labeled baggie. This “map” saves hours during reassembly and helps you prepare cabinets for painting without guesswork or misaligned hardware later.
Kitchen grime is stubborn and invisible in places—especially around pulls, edges, and door profiles. Mix your degreaser, put on gloves, and scrub every square inch of doors, drawer fronts, face frames, and end panels. Rinse with clean water and wipe dry with microfiber cloths. If you plan to keep existing hardware holes, clean inside those holes too. Any remaining oils will repel primer and cause fish-eyes in the finish.
Tip: If cabinets are glossy or feel slick after cleaning, a quick pass with liquid deglosser helps dull the surface and improves primer bite. Always follow the product’s safety and ventilation instructions.
Sanding isn’t about removing all the finish—it’s about scratching the surface uniformly so primer can lock on. Use 120–150 grit for the initial scuff on factory finishes or older clear coats. Sand flat areas with a sanding block for even pressure, and use sanding sponges on profiles and edges. Avoid rolling edges too aggressively; keep them crisp by sanding with light, even strokes.
Vacuum dust thoroughly, then wipe with a damp microfiber and let dry. A final tack-cloth pass just before priming removes the last specks. Dust left on the surface turns into bumps under primer and paint, creating extra sanding later.
Hold doors at an angle to the light to reveal dings and open grain. Use wood filler for dents, scratches, and old hardware holes (if you’re switching handle sizes). Overfill slightly; it will shrink as it dries. Sand repairs flush with 180–220 grit. For face frames and seams where two pieces meet, run a thin bead of paintable caulk and tool it smooth. Fixing these details now prevents shadows and gaps that stand out after painting.
Oak Grain Strategy: If you want a smoother, “paint-grade” look on open-grain species like oak, apply a grain filler after your initial scuff-sand and before primer. Sand smooth once it cures, then prime. This extra step transforms a rustic texture into a sleek, modern surface.
Mask countertops, floors, walls, and inside cabinet boxes (if you’re only painting faces). Use quality painter’s tape pressed down firmly, especially along caulk lines and the underside of face frames. Lay paper or film over appliances and fixtures. Good masking speeds up primer and paint application and produces razor-sharp edges with less cleanup—a key part of preparing cabinets for painting like a pro.
Adhesion and leveling depend on conditions. Aim for room temperatures around 60–80°F with moderate humidity. Too cold or too humid and coatings won’t cure correctly; too hot and they’ll flash dry, showing roller stipple or brush marks. Use fans to move air, but don’t aim them at wet surfaces (they’ll blow dust and dry edges too fast). If you’re working in a garage, wet the floor lightly before priming to keep dust down.
A high-adhesion bonding primer is your best friend for laminate, thermofoil, and previously finished wood. If you suspect tannin bleed (common with cherry, mahogany, knotty pine), spot-prime with a shellac-based primer on problem areas or choose a stain-blocking bonding primer for full coats. Apply primer with a quality brush for profiles and a high-density foam or microfiber roller for flats. Work in thin, even coats—two light coats beat one heavy coat for leveling and durability.
Let the primer dry fully, then inspect your surfaces. Primer highlights remaining flaws; this is the ideal moment to spot-fill and sand before the color coats.
Lightly sand primed surfaces with 220 grit to knock down raised grain and roller texture. The goal is a silky, uniform feel that makes your topcoat glide. Vacuum, wipe with a damp microfiber, and finish with a tack cloth. If you can’t feel any grit under your fingertips and the surface looks uniformly dull, you’ve successfully prepared cabinets for painting.
If each box is checked, you’ve completed the Step-by-Step Guide to Preparing Cabinets for Painting and set yourself up for a professional-quality finish.
You’ve now completed the Step-by-Step Guide to Preparing Cabinets for Painting and have the exact process to prepare cabinets for painting like a pro. If you’re handling the finish yourself, move on to your painting method—brushing, rolling, or spraying—while keeping dust control and dry times in check. If you’d rather have a pro team handle everything from prep to a factory-grade finish, reach out and we’ll get you a fast, friendly quote.
Most DIYers spend two to three days on prep for an average kitchen. Complex repairs, grain filling, or stain blocking can add time.
Yes. A light scuff-sand improves mechanical adhesion and levels the surface, even with high-adhesion primers.
Use 120–150 grit for initial scuffing and 180–220 grit after priming for a smooth, paint-ready surface.
No. Invisible kitchen oils cause fish-eyes and poor adhesion. Always degrease first.
Choose a cabinet-rated bonding primer; use a stain-blocking or shellac-based primer for tannin-prone woods or if you see yellowing during testing.
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